MINNEAPOLIS-SAINT PAUL:

THE QUALITY OF LIFE CITIES

by Lee Foster

Virtually every study ranking U.S. urban areas on "quality of life" lists Minneapolis-Saint Paul near the top.

This writer periodically returns to his native Minnesota to assess the substance behind these judgments and what pleasures the Twin Cities offer the traveler. The conclusion, in short, is that this north country is one of the better kept secrets in U.S. travel. If the U.S. heartland gets some of your travel attention, Minnesota merits a share of the interest.

The Minneapolis-Saint Paul appeal begins with the physical setting, which includes several substantial lakes whose shorelines are accessible to all residents as parks. The strong sense of a viable community, so absent elsewhere, can be felt by the traveler at such festive occasions as the Aquatennial Parade in July and the Block Party that precedes it on the Nicollet Mall in downtown Minneapolis.

Minnesotans are a friendly people, neither wary nor suspicious of the stranger. They tend to accept someone at face value until behavior would alert them otherwise. The Twin Cities, as Minneapolis and Saint Paul are called, have a sufficient number of well-educated and energetic individuals so that a diverse and nurturing cultural life flourishes. Yet there remains a small-town ingenuousness, which is so refreshing.

The 4.9 million Minnesota residents spread over a large, green, wooded area, buffered by the calming influence of lakes, so a spacious feeling infuses all social relations. The Twin Cities are relatively cleaner, safer, and more orderly than other cities one could mention. Things seem to work here better than they do in other cities. The length and severity of winter, plus the high heat and humidity of summer, are the state's major negatives.

Because Minnesota is generally such a well-organized place, the citizens were profoundly shocked and disturbed by the collapse of the I-35W bridge in summer 2007. Infrastructure deterioration that becomes dangerous is usually caught and corrected here before there is a catastrophe.

MINNEAPOLIS

The Nicollet Mall in downtown Minneapolis is an example showing how things work here. At a time when the inner cities of the U.S. were dying, losing their shopping traffic to suburban malls, the movers and shakers created an eight-block downtown mall for foot traffic and public transportation only, luring the shopper and cafe idler back to the downtown. Major cultural entities, such as Orchestra Hall, are on the mall. This large performing arts hall, with its movable baffles, is known for acoustic excellence. Downtown housing was also revitalized, within manageable distance, at sites such as the Loring Greenway.

A key adjunct to the Nicollet Mall is the extensive all-weather skyway system, the interlinking second-story passageways that join the buildings. Skyway here refers not to freeways, as it does in other cities, but to an air-conditioned and heated pedestrian passageway, above the streets, connecting the downtown buildings. Today you can find 41 skyways joining lodging, dining, and shopping establishments in downtown Minneapolis, plus more in St. Paul. The effect is total comfort control, allowing you to view from indoors the outdoor weather, which can be punishing. Minneapolis and Saint Paul have evaded the limitations of their weather with these skyways.

(An even more elaborate expression of the enclosed space, suitable for weather-proof life in a harsh weather environment, is the Mall of America, near the airport, on the south side of the city. Whether the winter wind chill is minus 50 or the summer humidity is suffocating, the enclosed Mall of America provides a shopping and recreation refuge. What is notable about Mall of America is its size and audacity. The Mall claims to be the largest, fully-enclosed retail and family entertainment complex in the U.S. The total enclosed space is said to hold seven Yankee stadiums or 32 Boeing 747s. As you walk past 4.3 miles of storefronts on four levels, the mall could certainly be said to advance the concept of aerobic shopping.)

Some main buildings in downtown Minneapolis are the IDS Tower, with its large enclosed Crystal Court, the City Center with three levels of shops and restaurants, and the elegant Foshay Tower, once the landmark skyscraper of the city, but now a mere historical legacy. The Minneapolis Convention Center can accommodate everything from rock concerts to auto shows.

One arts attraction to savor, not far from the Nicollet Mall, is the Walker Art Center, with an adjacent seven-acre Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. The Walker hosts major traveling shows and exhibits pieces from its own extensive collection, such as the pixelated portraits of artist Chuck Close. The Minneapolis Sculpture Garden is a pleasure to walk in and meditate over. It will pull you back for each future visit to the Twin Cities. The most famous sculpture is the lyrical Spoonbridge and Cherry by Claes Oldenburg. This is the often-pictured piece that is a large spoon with a cherry on it. Part of the humor of the sculpture is the spacial perspective of this usually small object, a spoon, seen so large, with the Minneapolis skyline quite small in the background.

The other cultural area to focus on is the Riverfront District, where you'll find the Mill City Museum and the Guthrie Theater. This setting is adjacent to St. Anthony Falls, the only major cataract on the Mississippi River. Because of the huge energy potential of the cascading water, many saw mills and then flour mills were organized in Minneapolis, especially 1858-1930. Minneapolis became the world's leading producer of flour. The Mill Ruins Park recalls this heritage, which included intricate waterways providing mechanical power to various mills. Railroads carried out the flour. Today you can walk out on the Stone Arch Bridge, originally a railroad bridge, and look back at the mill area and downtown Minneapolis. This is a remarkable urban walk, showing the Mississippi and the current configuration of St. Anthony Falls.

Back on shore, be sure to allow time for the highly entertaining movie "Minneapolis in 19 Minutes Flat" at the Mill City Museum. The Mill City Museum presents re-enactors who portray characters in 19th century milling history. There is a also a notable Flour Tower tour that re-creates the mechanized world of the flour mills. You rise eight floors to the top of the mill and learn how the water power from St. Anthony Falls propelled all the intricate milling machinery.

Next door is the world-reknowned Guthrie Theater, which has flourished in Minneapolis as a quality repertory company since 1963. Taking in a play at the Guthrie is a recommended element in planning your Twin Cities itinerary. I enjoyed seeing a performance of 1776 and thought back fondly to the Volpone production that I witnessed here in the 1960s.

One unusual aspect of the fine-dining scene in Minneapolis is that two of the best restaurants are in the major cultural instititutions. At the Walker, consider dinner at Wolfgang Puck's 20.21. Puck has an uncanny ability to create flavorful setting in various worldwide locales. This one might be described as "Asian sensibilities with Austrian leadership." The grilled Mongolian Lamb Chops and Roasted Cantonese Duck are menu favorites. Before your play at the Guthrie, try dining at Cue. The emphasis is on Minnesota/Wisconisn boutique gourmet agriculture. You might start with Wisconsin Sweet Carrot Soup and then proceed to the Thousand Hills Cattle Company grass-fed ribeye steak. The cattle farm is in Southern Minnesota.

The restaurant to indulge in if you want the very best in Minneapolis fine dining is chef Tim McKee's award-winning La Belle Vie at 510 Groveland. I opted for the eight-course Chef Tasting with the Wine Flight wine pairings, which amounted to a three-hour pageant of taste sensations. Possibly the Roasted Squab With Foie Gras and Shell Pea Caramelle was my favorite course, paired with an Archery Summit Pinot Noir, Willamette Valey, Oregon 2005. The quietness of the elegant dining room, a low decibel and chandeliered masterpiece, makes conversation possible. The wait staff have the polish of Guthrie Theater actors, except that they are dealing with fact rather than fiction. The culinary artistry on your plate will rival the quality of anything on the walls of the Walker Art Center, which is across the street.

For a Minneapolis food alternative that is economical, ethnic, and diversified, go to the so-called Eat Street district, a 17-block stretch of Hennepin south of the downtown. I parked between 25th and 26th and looked around at the Chinese, Vietnamese, Mexican, and Arabic eateries before choosing Seafood Palace for dinner. At this Chinese place my choices were the Pot Stickers, Honey Walnut Shrimp, and Sweet and Spicy Beef Baby Short Ribs. The repast was delicious. I then walked across the street to Arabic Sinbad's for a walnut-stuffed dessert pastry.

The historic diversity of the Minnesota economy, making it resilient in recessionary times, contributes much to the relative social harmony that a visitor will observe. Historically, Minnesota people supported themselves first with the fur trade. The huge white pine forests of the state, once thought to be endless, propelled the second major industry, lumber. Wheat farming and milling offered the third avenue to wealth, as time proceeded. (Some of the former Minneapolis grain elevators--grain elevators are the cathedrals of the midwest--have been transformed, ingeniously, into condominiums.) Corn and soybeans are now major crops, with the demand for ethanol increasing the price of corn and the value of agricultural land. Another major growth area is in computer and high-tech products, with companies such as Honeywell, 3M, and IBM propelling the economy ahead.

Minnesota is primarily populated by white northern Europeans, so racial and ethnic diversity is not the state's strong point, though there is now a substantial Hispanic population, plus a smattering of Somali and Hmong, among the Irish and Scandinavians. When you talk to individual African Americans about their situation here, they may contrast the area favorably with cities where racial hostility lingers just below the surface. Minnesota is also a relatively white-collar region, making it an attractive migratory destination for the educated and the skilled.

EXPLORING THE LAKES

After exploring downtown Minneapolis, consider a look at the lakes of this water city. You might first want to view the lakes by car, then return to walk or bike them. Hiking and biking paths circle the main lakes and connect them to each other. You can even rent canoes at Lakes Calhoun and Harriet. There are a total of 22 lakes within the Twin Cities and 57 miles of trails. The 48 free swimming beaches on the lakes are popular in summer, when residents replenish their solar batteries in preparation for winter. As mentioned, the wisdom of the early city fathers, who set aside all the lake-edge real estate as public parks for all of the people, creates a feeling of wellbeing and cohesiveness among the citizens.

Each lake has its own character. Lake of the Isles is meditative and tranquil. Lake Calhoun, especially on its south side, is the place where beautiful bodies can be seen and shown. Though all the lakes have swimming beaches, the beaches on Lake Calhoun, the largest and deepest lake, are especially salubrious. Calhoun offers good swimming, sunning, sailboat-launching, and volleyball, with a view of the Minneapolis skyline in the background. Lake Harriet has a whimsical band shell for performances, lots of sailboats, and presents a woodsy, rustic feel. Within the lake area, the most famous street of great homes, originally those of milling magnates, is Mt. Curve.

SAINT PAUL

Following a perusal of the Minneapolis downtown and the lakes, venture into Saint Paul. Stop first at the highest hills, actually large glacial moraines, overlooking the downtown. There you'll find, within sight of each other, four of Saint Paul's main attractions.

The handsome State Capitol Building, said to be one of the world's largest unsupported marble domes, was built of stunning white marble. Walk inside to see the blue-painted interior of the dome.

The Saint Paul Cathedral is a monument to the Catholicism that has flourished here, starting with the Jesuit missionaries and then greatly nurtured by the huge Irish migration in the 19th century.

Between these two edificies lies a large building called the Minnesota History Center, with ample exhibits on the Gopher State. Here you can realistically experience a tornado, for example, in one ingenious exhibit.

Tucked behind the Cathedral at 240 Summit Avenue is another sort of cathedral, the monumental home of James J. Hilll, the railroad tycoon who accumulated the largest fortune in these parts in the 19th century. Beyond taking a look at the lavish wood-panel interior of the house, walk around to the back and slightly down the hill to view the full scope of the structure, built to celebrate its river view.

Then drive down Summit Avenue a few blocks to see the many other palaces constructed for the captains of industry who flourished in the Twin Cities towards the end of the 19th century. Novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald's fascination with wealth in his fictions, personified in the character J. Gatsby, originated because this Minnesota-native author lived in a more modest row house on Summit, near Dale Street.

Minneapolis and Saint Paul, perennial rivals, generate jokes about "Sinning in Minneapolis, Confessing in Saint Paul" and "Cross from Minneapolis to Saint Paul and you need to set your watch back 50 years." These jokes evoke an element of truth. The cities may be twins, but they are far from being identical twins.

After looking at these icons on the Saint Paul hills, proceed to the downtown, near the river, and start at Rice Park. This small park, dedicated in 1849, unifies downtown Saint Paul in a stylish, small-town plaza ambiance that finds no parallel in Minneapolis. Rice Park is the intermission strolling place for the Ordway Theater. At noon the fountain at Rice Park is a brown-bagger site, sometimes complete with a free band or orchestral performance. Opposite the Ordway is the stately Saint Paul Hotel, a 1910 grande dame property that has been restored to multi-star elegance. The hotel's Saint Paul Grill restaurant is a fitting fine-dining site at which to savor more regional specialties, such as wild rice soup, followed by walleyed pike. Scattered around the Rice Park area are lyrical bronze sculptures of Charlie Brown and other cartoon characters created by Minnesota favorite son, Charles Shulz.

Also located at the Rice Park plaza is an elegant stone Victorian, called the Landmark Center, architecturally one of the treasures of the Twin Cities. This fine, spired federal structure now houses history and arts organizations. Step inside to see the four-story interior and perhaps lunch on soup and sandwich at Anita's Cafe. When the Landmark opened in 1902, it was the scene of an historic court struggle between Teddy Roosevelt's anti-monopoly biases and the aggressive business practices of the great railroad consolidator of Saint Paul, James J. Hill. The Supreme Court finally ruled in 1905 that Hill had restrained free trade.

THE MINNESOTA CHARACTER

Beyond seeing the physical setting of Minnesota, a traveler who brushes elbows with enough people here will begin to get a sense of the Minnesota person. The components that went into the character of Minnesotans have produced a person who is generally progressive, well-educated, independent, outward looking, friendly, and trusting. Hubert Humphrey, Eugene McCarthy, and Walter Mondale were all known for these decent, idealistic, democratic tendencies. The local phrase "Minnesota nice" sometimes serves as a code word for such instincts. Minnesotans tax themselves heavily, at the state and local level, to maintain their quality of life.

Travelers fortunate enough to visit Minneapolis-Saint Paul are likely to echo the judgment that this northern travel destination enjoys a particularly appealing quality of life.

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MINNESOTA: IF YOU GO

The overall tourism information contact is Explore Minnesota Tourism, 121 Seventh Place East, Suite 100, Saint Paul, MN 55101-2114, 888-868-7476, www.exploreminnesota.com.

For Minneapolis info, contact Meet Minneapolis, 250 Marquette Avenue South, Suite 1300, Minneapolis, MN 55401, 612-767-8000, www.meetminneapolis.com.

This article was written by Lee Foster of Foster Travel Publishing. Contact him at his website www.fostertravel.com or via email at lee@fostertravel.com. Copyright Lee Foster.

Lee Foster's most recent travel guidebooks are Northern California History Weekends (Globe Pequot), which won a Lowell Thomas Award, and Adventure Guide to Northern California (Hunter Publishing).

Lee Foster's new literary book is Travels in an American Imagination: The Spiritual Geography of Our Time.

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