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Hawaii’s Hokulea Canoe Tells Story of Polynesian Voyage


by Lee Foster

“Who were the original Hawaiians?” and “How did they get to Hawaii?” are beguiling questions a traveler can raise.

In our 21st century context, a further question arises, “How can we best protect and preserve the oceans that were the historic highways to Hawaii?”

Answers can be gleaned in Honolulu by visiting the Hawaiian Maritime Center and seeing the re-created deep-sea voyaging canoe, the Hokulea, if it is not out voyaging.

A traveler should ask at the Polynesian Voyaging Society office in the Maritime Center if the visionary leader of the society, Nainoa Thompson, the great open-ocean navigator, happens to be giving a public talk. He is an inspiring person to hear. (Besides seeing the ship and listening to Nainoa, take a look at the ethnography exhibits at the Bishop Museum about the Polynesians.) 

Keep up with the latest developments, such as the planned worldwide trip for the Hokulea, at the Polynesian Voyaging Society website (

The phenomenon that humans ever reached Hawaii ranks with the major accomplishments of mankind.

Hawaii is one of the most remote places on Earth. The islands are fully 2,000 miles from the nearest inhabited places in the South Pacific. It takes five hours by jet to get there today from the South Pacific or from the U.S. mainland. Imagine what time it took for a sailing craft from the South Pacific, headed north to an unknown destination.

Earliest Sailings

The original inhabitants of  Hawaii are believed to have come from the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific about A.D. 250-450. Later migrations probably came from Tahiti. It is believed that the Tahitians had the skills to make the journey in both directions.

The knowledge of navigation and the personal self-confidence that allowed these people to sail in relatively small deep-sea voyaging canoes over this huge distance are inspiring.

One wonders how many ill-fated canoes missed the Hawaiian Islands and disappeared anonymously in the abyss of history and the ocean.

It is said that some DNA evidence amongst Alaska tribal groups links them to the South Pacific peoples. More detective work on this matter would be welcomed.

On a relatively small double-hull canoe these explorers would have needed to carry their water, food, seeds to plant for more food, tools, livestock and familiar animals (such as pigs, chickens, and dogs), plus sufficient childbearing women to reproduce themselves.

Re-created Canoe

The historic voyages have been re-created by the canoe, called the Hokulea, now a cultural icon at the Hawaiian Maritime Center in Honolulu.

The Hokulea has made the voyage several times, usually without any modern navigation aids, manned by modern Hawaiians, after being built in 1975 by a group of aficionados known as The Polynesian Voyaging Society. In 1976 the Hokulea sailed down to Tahiti and back, a feat it repeated in 1980. In 1985-1987 the double-hull canoe made a voyage of discovery throughout the South Pacific, visiting many remote islands. During a 1995 voyage the Hokulea made record time going to Tahiti and Micronesia.

Hokulea means “Star of Joy,” after a star, Arcturus, that hangs over the islands.

Any traveler can look at the Hokulea or its sister ship, the Hawaii Loa, if the ships are in the water and not in dry-dock for rot repair or out voyaging.  Within the adjacent museum at the Maritime Center, you can learn many details about the Hokulea and view other exhibits.

The Hokulea has exerted a dramatic influence on the resurgence of pride and self-confidence in Hawaiians and South Pacific Islanders. Nainoa Thompson speaks eloquently to this point.

“We built the Hokulea in a dark period,” says Nainoa. “Hawaiians were not then proud of who they are. We were navigating ‘cultural change’ as much as the oceans.”

Nainoa recalls his conflicted youth, when his grandmother spoke with pride of her own grandfather, an independent fisherman, and then averted her eyes as she discussed the more recent Hawaiian period, when people were beaten with sticks for simply being Hawaiian.

“Hawaiian had a negative connotation,” adds Nainoa. “People tried to wash the brown off their skin.”

Young Nainoa came under the influence of an artist, Herb Kane, who was obsessed with images of the great open-hulled canoes that the ancients must have used to cross the oceans. Kane instilled in Thompson and others the dream of building such a canoe, re-creating the voyages, and raising the pride of the people over the feats involved in these monumental voyages and the many skills required to make them. The ocean is a severe and unforgiving adversary for anyone who ventures out unprepared.

“We dreamed that the voyages would bring dignity to people,” says Nainoa. “We could take our anger about our self-image and put it to a positive use. Our language and culture were asleep, but perhaps the re-created voyages would wake us all up.”

Ancient Skills

A South Seas navigator who still had the skills, named Mau Piailug, was enlisted to help. The first 2,500-mile voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti was successful in 31 days, but Mau Piailug resigned because he felt the crew did not have the discipline required. Nainoa himself, full of fear, became the leader of the voyage back to Hawaii, which was made without incident. On the next voyage south, the canoe capsized while still in Hawaiian waters and a legendary surfer and lifeguard among the crew, Eddie Aikau, died. A dark period of introspection followed. Was this voyaging worth the risk? Out of this traumatic time a new leadership team emerged with far greater navigational skills.

“The voyaging canoe was like a needle making a lei of the islands, the flowers of the South Pacific,” says Nainoa.

The navigational skills, archaeology, and modern genetics that are a part of this story are all intriguing.

It is believed that the sweet potato came onto the scene from South America, so there must have been some contact, but the migration probably came from Asia.

Recent genetic studies tend to confirm that Hawaiians came east from Asia through the South Pacific and up to Hawaii. Some Haida natives in Alaska are believed to be part of this genetic heritage. The logs for the new canoe, the Hawaii Loa, were contributed by Alaska natives.

It is believed that voyages from the South Pacific ended in roughly the 14th century, partially by a decree of rulers to preserve their blood lines as the dominant class. There were also resource limitations in the islands as populations grew. Mounting huge voyaging expeditions was costly.

“All the science and human factors work together in the Hokulea story,” says Nainoa. “There has been a huge resurgence of pride in these Pacific peoples, both in Hawaii and in the South Pacific. They now have a sense of their historic accomplishments and a reverence for their past.”

A Remarkable Feat

The size of the Pacific Ocean within the so-called Polynesian Triangle, with New Zealand, Hawaii, and Easter Islands as the corners, is simply immense. Finding small islands in this vast 10-million square miles of sea was a remarkable feat.

Because of their careful observations of nature, the ancient sailors had some confidence that there would be land to the north, somewhere. One of their indicators was a land bird, the golden plover. They noted that the plover could only set down on land, not at sea. The people of the Marquesas saw that the golden plover migrated to their islands from the north, but did not nest there. Rather, the birds disappeared annually to the north. Therefore, the assumption was that they nested somewhere to the north, on land. Modern bird observers now know that the golden plover flies fully 6,000 miles north to nest in Alaska, far beyond Hawaii.

Knowing there was land up there somewhere, the navigators still had to be able to reckon direction to go north. They developed a method of navigation known as ‘wayfinding,’ totally dependent on natural signs. Nainoa Thompson has these same uncanny skills.

The wayfinding navigator must be able to guide the canoe without any instruments beyond his own mind. At dawn and dusk, of course there is the rising and setting sun. But at midday, the direction of the waves and swells would be the key. And at night, the rising and setting positions of about 210 key stars were critical. As people with an oral rather than a written tradition and with huge capacities for memory, remembering the stars was a critical knowledge to master.

Other clues would be the way clouds form near islands, especially around islands with peaks. The presence of birds, such as boobies, would also be evidence that islands were near. The flight path of birds would be a directional clue. The content of drifting debris would be another sign as to the direction of and existence of islands. How long would a drifting leaf remain green before deteriorating? How many days had it drifted? Given the wind and wave speed, how far away was the source of the green leaf?

One also wonders what motivated these people to venture north toward Hawaii. The early assumption was that war, overpopulation, and strife may have stimulated them to seek new territory. But the planning required to launch the canoes and the huge amount of social cooperation required for the venture suggest that there were more positive motivations. The spirit of adventure may have been one of the motivating factors.

Outfitting the canoe was a complex task. Perhaps 20 people traveled on these small double-hull crafts. At least five couples would have been needed to produce offspring not adversely inbred. The voyage would last about 30 days.

The threat of becoming becalmed in the middle of the ocean was real and would have been fatal.

Captain James Cook, the Englishman who “discovered” Hawaii for Europeans in 1778, certainly had his equals among the many daring Polynesian navigators who “discovered” Hawaii from their bases in the Marquesas or Tahiti.

More insights into the South Pacific Islanders who settled Hawaii can be gleaned at the Bishop Museum, the major ethnographic facility of the Pacific, documenting early Hawaii and all the islands that contributed to its development.

Every travel destination has ways of enlarging our imagination if we can only discern them. The Hokulea is one of the major Hawaii contributions to our sensibility. A visitor can see in the Hokulea a renewed sense of the grandeur of the human spirit, the spirit of adventure inherent in mankind, and the willingness of the human animal to take on unimaginable risks.

The next time you spend five hours in an airplane flying to Hawaii, consider what a 2,000-mile canoe ride to Hawaii from the South Pacific would have been like, especially if you had no idea when you would ever see land again.

For the modern air traveler, the islands suddenly jump out, magically and improbably in the middle of the ocean. Imagine the intense emotions of a Marquesan about A.D. 250-400 who spotted land after 30 days at sea during a voyage into the unknown.

The Hokulea has inspired a new generation of voyaging canoes with grand visions. In 2011 five of the canoes sailed all the way from the Cook Islands to my home in San Francisco. The Cook Islands mariners and other Polynesian people associated with the canoes came to entertain and to instruct. The instruction was about stewardship of the sea and how these Polynesian people can help lead the cause. The boat captain led the crew in an impassioned chant. (See my video of this event, above, or at its YouTube home at


The Hokulea: For Further Information

The organization managing the Hokulea is the Polynesian Voyaging Society, whose office is at Pier 7 in the Hawaii Maritime Center in Honolulu. They will know, on any given day, the precise location of the voyaging canoe. Contact them in advance of a visit at

Contact the Hawaiian Visitors Bureau at

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Copyright © 2016 Lee Foster, Foster Travel Publishing. All rights reserved.

This article was written by Lee Foster of Foster Travel Publishing. Contact Lee at .

Lee has 250 worldwide travel writing/photography coverages, plus articles on publishing and literary subjects, for consumers to enjoy and for content buyers to license at

Lee’s latest books/ebooks include one on self-publishing, titled An Author’s Perspective on Independent Publishing: Why Self-Publishing May Be Your Best Option, and a literary memoir about growing up in Minnesota, titled Minnesota Boy: Growing Up in Mid-America, Mid-20th Century. Lee’s travel literary book/ebook, Travels in an American Imagination: The Spiritual Geography of Our Time, now exists also as an audiobook.

Lee’s travel books/ebooks, focused mainly on California, include Northern California Travel: The Best Options, now available also as an ebook in Chinese. Lee co-wrote and co-photographed a major book for publisher Dorling Kindersley (DK) in their Eyewitness Guide series, titled Back Roads California. Lee’s further current California titles are The Photographer’s Guide to San Francisco and Northern California History Weekends. All of Lee’s books can be seen on his website at and on his Amazon Author Page.

Lee's photo-selling website on PhotoShelter has 7,000 digital images for photo buyers to license. Buyers may be individuals looking for photos for their blogs, publications, and décor. Lee’s traditional markets have been travel magazines and travel PR entities looking for travel images. See the photos at and some licensing detail there at About.
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16 Responses to “Hawaii’s Hokulea Canoe Tells Story of Polynesian Voyage”
  1. Greg Jo says:

    Fascinating tale. Much appreciated.

    But is it true that after their initial years of observation of the golden plovers’ flight patterns it took the Polynesians about 400 years later to chance upon the Hawaii islands?

    Apparently by watching the birds, they would ready themselves the following year from where they had about tracked the birds the previous year and then continue their search?

    A reply will be highly cherished.

  2. Billy Sohan says:

    Is it true that it took 400 years to discover Hawaii after the polynesians started following the Golden Plover birds.

  3. Lee Foster says:

    I imagine it is difficult to determine the exact number of years. What I find remarkable is their observational skill and their deductive capacity. Since these were land birds, there must be land up there somewhere, to the north. What an act of faith to set out into that unknown watery territory in search of land.

  4. Melissa Herring says:

    Hello, this is very fascinating. I have heard stories, from my family, about a boat traveling from Hawaii to Alaska. According to the story, “Duke Kiana” was the head of this sea vessel that ended up crash-landing in Alaska, destroying the vessel. He met and fell in love with an Eskimo woman and stayed here! I am one of their many descendants. I am very interested in learning more about this.

  5. Lee Foster says:

    Very interesting observations. Keep studying this and let us know what you find. I understood that there were also some genetic markers that verified the presence of South Seas genes in some Alaskan peoples.
    Lee Foster

  6. Tim Upham says:

    Following the Pacific golden plovers, is the best means for navigation. They migrate all the way from Siberia out to the Pacific Islands. A distance of 5,000 t0 13,000 kilometers. So seeing them means they are heading towards land. But what the ancient Polynesians had to worry about is if that land had mountains for two things: freshwater, and protection against typhoons. Because if there was no freshwater, or places to take refuge during typhoons, they would have not survived.

  7. Lee Foster says:

    Thank you for adding these details to the Hokulea conversation.
    Lee Foster

  8. Steve says:

    It simply isn’t possible that natives left any continent, or any island, and migrated to Hawaii or Tahiti. The notion is absurd. Both are over 2,500 miles from anything. Why would natives leave Tahiti or Hawaii, with their numerous major islands, with plenty of food and water, and a sparse population, to try to find their way to an island they had no idea existed? As far as they knew, Hawaii or Tahiti was all there was to this world. The chance of survival would have been zero. Navigation skills would have been worthless, since they didn’t know anything else existed. The chance of hitting a spec 2,500 miles away in an endless ocean would have been one in millions. The notion that they loaded up a canoe with lots of food stuffs, water, etc. for an endless trip to nowhere is absurd. So how did they do it? This is just another great puzzle in a long list of puzzles that we humans aren’t capable of figuring out. But we sure can make fables up to try to explain.

  9. kanaka maoli says:

    I love hokuleʻa

  10. SunSun says:

    Wait so does that mean they migrated out from Asia in a classic mongoloid Asian form? I mean we all know that Eskimos, migrated from Siberia or the tsatann people of Mongolia moving in into the heat causing their skin to get darker as they move to the south.But this is like a mystery, maybe they got there from a continent that use to exist called lumeria maybe the lumeria continent was close to the Asian continent and that’s how they got all the way to Hawaii before the flood?

  11. SunSun says:

    Study the skull of a pure Hawaiian skull structure…If it’s a mongoloid skull if would have high cheek bone , broader skull ect….

  12. Loki says:

    Maybe they migrated out in a classic mongoloid Asian form just like the Eskimo that migrated out from Siberia or from the tsataan people of Mongolia maybe it’s just like that…

  13. Lokii says:

    I think there use to be an ancient continent called lumeria that was right next to Asia before the sea level rise and gobbles up many of the land…there is ancient pyramids being found underwater in Japan and inside the Bermuda Triangle…out in a classic mongoloid Asian form just like the Eskimo that migrated out from Siberia or from the tsataan people of Mongolia maybe it’s just like that…I mean these ancient people were spiritually developed and probably know about meditation…

  14. Benjamin says:

    I am curious as to what star group is followed once you leave Hawaii to get to Tahiti?
    I saw the 30 30 story of Mr. Aikau and was deeply moved.

  15. Lee Foster says:

    Thanks for your comment. I don’t know the star group answer. Perhaps someone else will respond. It is truly inspiring to learn of all the nature-inspired knowledges that these great mariners amassed.
    Lee Foster

  16. secret sumatra says:

    I really like your writing style, great information, appreciate you for putting it up.

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