by Lee Foster
The great museums of Northern California have two new enticements begging for your attention. The newly reopened SFMOMA San Francisco Museum of Modern Art has been rebuilt to accommodate the donated Fisher Collection, with its many modern masterpieces, and to address other art-presentation needs. And the new BAMPFA Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive, in Berkeley, sparkles with innovation.
SFMOMA closed for a few years for a multi-story rebuild to accommodate the donated Fisher Collection and other needs. The international architecture firm Snohetta won the design contract. Beyond housing the Fisher Collection, more space for education, public programming, conservation, and interpretation was desired. The passions of “modern art” flow in a number of directions, proving that you can’t delight all of the people all of the time. What impressed me in a recent walk-through were three subjects. Alexander Calder’s “Big Crinky” sculpture next to the outdoor Living Wall art form was as beguiling as his many mobiles in a room indoors. Andreas Gursky’s photos showing “structures of our world,” such as thousands of items for purchase in a modern supermarket, define one special aspect of our time. For the San Francisco nostalgia buff, including those who might have been there, the graphics of posters from Bill Graham concerts 1966-1970 are a major art form in themselves.
At BAMPFA, expect to be surprised. For instance, can spiders create intricate three-dimensional webs that are themselves works of art? That is the vision artist Tomas Saraceno shows at the newly opened BAMPFA museum in downtown Berkeley, California. BAMPFA, which stands for Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive, is a striking architectural statement and a special collection of fine art and historic films. Innovation propels the museum into the stratosphere of the best museums to consider in California. When you walk along the street by the museum, you see a huge outdoor LCD screen showing a rotating display of clips from the historic film collection. (See the listing for BAMPFA below for more details.)
Overall, Northern California enlarges the notion of “museum,” especially if you focus on the top museums to consider.
Where but in California, in the heart of Silicon Valley, could one expect to find a museum devoted to up-to-the-minute technical advances? That’s the Tech Museum of Innovation. And where else, if one seeks out historic authenticity, would one find the premier museum to the railroad in the development of the American West than in Old Sacramento? From Sacramento the actual railroad first snaked its way east, across the Sierra.
Northern California’s great museums offer outstanding experiences of many kinds—art, history, technology.
Here are my nominees for the top museums to visit:
The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco consist of both the de Young in Golden Gate Park and the Legion of Honor in Lincoln Park.
The strikingly modern, copper-skinned de Young Museum, which replaced an earthquake-damaged earlier structure, is a major amenity in Golden Gate Park. The building, designed by Swiss architects Pierre de Meuron and Jacques Herzog, features a cantilevered roof and a 144-foot-tall obervation tower that offers sweeping views of the park out to the Pacific Ocean. Its Rockefeller Collection of American Art, with 140 of the finest pieces of American creativity, suggests the strength of the museum in American as well as European art. Classic paintings of George Caleb Bingham, Winslow Homer, and Thomas Eakins are on display. The basement gallery shows special exhibitions. Contact: Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco: de Young Museum, Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., San Francisco, CA 94118; 415/750-3600; www.deyoung.famsf.org. Legion of Honor is at 100 34th Ave., San Francisco, CA 94121.
The Asian Art Museum, housed in the city’s former public library, is an intriguing repository. The architects retained the Beaux-Arts facade, grand staircase, and ornate card-catalog room, but the rest of the building is strictly modern. The Avery Brundage Collection assembles some 10,000 items, one of the world’s major accumulations of Far East and Near East art. Contact: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco; 200 Larkin St., San Francisco, CA 94102; 415/581-3500; www.asianart.org.
Designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, the original building for the SFMOMA San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, at Yerba Buena Gardens, might be seen as the largest art object in its collection. The new build, by the international architecture firm, Snohetta, adds to the design delight. The clean, boxy, geometric structure, with its skylight and elevated walkway, provides a fitting home for the strong collection and for traveling shows. The new space allows SFMOMA to expand its services in multiple ways. Every explorer coming to San Francisco should put the museum on his or her must-see list. Two paintings not to miss, for example, are Henri Matisse’s Femme au Chapeau, (Woman with a Hat, 1905), which started the Fauvism movement, and contemporary German Anselm Kiefer’s Osiris and Isis, 1987, which transforms the ancient myth into a metaphor for modern power. Contact: San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, 151 3rd St.; San Francisco, CA 94103; 415/357-4000; www.sfmoma.org.
Monterey State Historic Park. The Custom House and Pacific House Museum in Old Monterey were part of the first capital of California, when the Spanish and Mexicans were in control. The museum shows fascinating trade objects that a young Richard Henry Dana saw when he wrote his classic work, Two Years Before the Mast. In that pre-Gold Rush California, cattle hides were known as “California banknotes” and were in demand by New England shoe manufacturers. A Path of History walk amidst the early adobes of Monterey and a Maritime Museum on the plaza heighten the museum interest in this seaside city. Contact: Monterey State Historic Park, 20 Custom House Plaza, Monterey, CA 93940; 831/649-7118; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=575.
The Tech Museum of Innovation, in San Jose. The technology magic of the Silicon Valley, south of San Francisco, comes alive in this museum, which celebrates scientific curiosity. This showcase of technological breakthroughs is largely a hands-on affair, where you can watch a robot perform household tasks, such as cooking food. Guided by volunteer interpreters, you learn about modern developments transforming our lives in robotics, microelectronics, biotechnology, materials science, and space exploration. For example, the difficult ethical decisions in biotechnology are presented as a viewer becomes aware of how gene modification can create new plants and animals. Contact: The Tech Museum of Innovation, 201 S. Market St., San Jose, CA 95113; 408/294-8324; www.thetech.org.
Oakland Museum of California. The genius of the Oakland Museum is that it separates, on individual floors, the worlds of nature, art, and history in California. The Oakland Museum has been a leader in museum presentation, creating “environments” rather than static exhibits. Typically, you might find here a display of “tidepool life,” about the complex web of life in the ocean-shore environment, rather than a static “seashells of the world” exhibit. Innovators such as the Oakland Museum have changed the concept of what a museum can be. Contact: Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St., Oakland, CA 94607; 510/318-8400; www.museumca.org.
Berkeley Art Museum – Pacific Film Archive. BAMPFA opened January 2016 with a temporary exhibit Architecture of Life, which shows the subtle interaction of buildings and human life. Designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the ingenious structure offers state-of-the-art theaters and galleries to display the best contemporary and historical art and film from around the world. Lectures, workshops, performances, and readings for all ages are part of the mission. An Art Lab and Reading Room encourage engagement with visitors. Dining is available at the Babette Cafe. Contact: Berkeley Art Museum – Pacific Film Archive, 2155 Center St., Berkeley, CA 94704; 510/642-0808; http://www.bampfa.org.
Old Sacramento. The cluster of historic buildings in Old Sacramento State Historic Park represents an alternative strategy for historic preservation. “Preservation for use” was the motto, re-creating the hustle and bustle of the post-Gold Rush scene along the Sacramento waterfront. One special museum here is the California State Railroad Museum, which rises far beyond a mere fascination with rolling stock, even though they have 21 restored locomotives. The Railroad Museum tells the sociological story of the effect of the railroad on the development of California and the country. The museum will excite anyone who feels a slight tug at the heart when the whistle of a train penetrates the stillness of night. A visitor can lodge on an authentic riverboat, the Delta King, a museum in itself. Contact: California State Railroad Museum, 111 I St., Sacramento, CA 95814; 916/445-6645; www.csrmf.org.
If your travels take you to Southern California, consider these museum stops:
The Getty Center in Los Angeles. This permanent collection of choice works of art, from all ages, treats a visitor to room after room of priceless treasures. You leave the 11th-century illuminated manuscripts and pass into a collection of art, such as Ruisdael landscapes from the Dutch 17th century. The Getty is, simply put, world class, a statement of good taste superbly funded. Contact: The Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Dr., Los Angeles, CA, 90049; 310/440-7300; www.getty.edu.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art. For the depth and range of its collections, the County Museum of Art is one of the country’s major art repositories. Whether the subject is American Art or Fashion and Textiles, the museum has strong collections. The five-building complex also features a changing show or two, often of contemporary art. Contact: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036; 323/857-6000; www.lacma.org.
La Brea Tar Pits and Museum. It’s amazing to think that, in the heart of Los Angeles, a tar pit, the La Brea Tar Pit, would yield some of the richest examples of ice-age fossils of mammals and birds. The huge reconstructed mammoths on display are the real thing, not just a movie fantasy. They died when they came to drink at the tar pit and became trapped in the goo. Contact: La Brea Tar Pits, 5801 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036; 213/763-3499; www.tarpits.org.
The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. In San Marino, you will find a major cultural treat. If you’ve longed to get close to an original work of great literature, such as Ben Franklin’s Autobiography, in his own handwriting, or one of the first folios of Shakespeare’s plays, the Huntington can satisfy your desire. Their outstanding collection of rare books includes a Gutenberg Bible and the Ellesmere Chaucer. That’s only the beginning of the Huntington experience, which includes elaborate gardens and strong collections of paintings, especially 18th-century British. Contact: Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino, CA 91108; 626/405-2100; www.huntington.org.
San Diego Museum of Art, in Balboa Park. Both the permanent collection of Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque masters, plus the changing contemporary shows, attract visitors to this art museum. Of special interest is the unusual situation that there are another dozen fine museums nearby, such as the Museum of Photographic Arts, with its innovative shows, and the San Diego Air and Space Museum, which salutes the aviation and space accomplishments to which Southern California has contributed. Contact: San Diego Museum of Art, 1450 El Prado, San Diego, CA 92102; 619/232-7931; www.sdmart.org.
California’s great museums nurture the developing California temperament, always a restless sensibility. In their great museums Californians keep pondering: What can we learn from the cultural legacies of the past, who are we as Californians today, and what is notable about our current achievements? These great museums constantly renew themselves, challenge the citizens of the state, and delight guests who come to visit.
This article is one of 30 chapters in my book/ebook Northern California Travel: The Best Options. California museums also figure prominently in my book/ebook titled The Photographer’s Guide to San Francisco. Those volumes, including some more on California, can be seen on my Amazon Author Page. My further books on Northern California are Back Roads California and Northern California History Weekends.